corruption free zone

I come to the Department of Immigration in Kathmandu to renew my visa. As I enter through the monumental gate a big sign catches my attention: WELCOME TO A CORRUPTION FREE ZONE

I smile, inwardly congratulating the Department of Immigration on their efforts, and walk the 50 meters to the entrance door.

The first person to meet me in the door takes a look at my papers. “You want two months stay?” he asks. “If possible,” I answer, knowing full well that the general rule is 1 month at a time. “I can fix that,” he says, “you just pay a little extra.” “A little extra?” I say. “You know,” he answers, “the visa fee, plus then a little extra,” gesturing with his hands to show money paid under a table.

Ha!